Deep in a secluded warehouse in OME, Japan, rows of giant tanks hold the prized Japanese rice wine known as sake. These tanks, each holding over 10,000 liters, are the product of brewing techniques that have been passed down for over 1,000 years. Junichiro Ozawa, the 18th-generation head of Ozawa Brewery, founded in 1702, is proud of his family’s sake-making tradition and hopes that it will soon be recognized as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage.
Ozawa shares his excitement as he gives a tour of his brewery located on the peaceful outskirts of Tokyo. He explains that every batch of sake is made with the utmost care and consideration for the people who will be enjoying it. As the decision for the UNESCO recognition draws near, Ozawa can’t help but imagine the faces of people from around the world who will now have the opportunity to taste his family’s sake.
Sake has a rich history, dating back to the ancient Japanese nobility who enjoyed it as their drink of choice. It was even mentioned in Japan’s most celebrated work of literature, “The Tale of Genji”. But in recent years, sake has gained popularity beyond Japan’s borders, thanks to the growing international love for Japanese cuisine.
According to the Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association, sake exports from Japan now total over 41 billion yen ($265 million) annually, with the United States and China being the top destinations. This is a significant increase from just a few years ago when exports were only around 22 billion yen. However, even with this growth, exports still only make up a small portion of overall sake production in Japan. But that is slowly changing as other countries, such as Brazil, Mexico, and Southeast Asia, are also developing a taste for sake.
So, what makes sake so special? It all starts with the rice and water. In order to be considered Japanese sake, the rice must be of Japanese origin. But equally important is the quality of the water used in the brewing process. The relatively soft freshwater found in Japan, like the water from the two wells at Ozawa Brewery, is crucial in creating the perfect sake.
Ozawa Brewery offers a variety of sake, each with its own unique flavor and character. One of their top offerings is the full-bodied, aromatic Junmai Daiginjo, with 15% alcohol content and a price of about 3,630 yen ($23) for a 720-milliliter bottle. For those looking for a more rugged and unrefined sake, there is the Karakuti Nigorizake, with a 17% alcohol content and a price of 2,420 yen ($16) for a 1,800 milliliter bottle.
The religious significance of sake is evident at Ozawa Brewery. A large cedar-leaves ball hangs under the eaves, symbolizing a shrine for the god of sake-making. In Japan, sake is not only used for drinking but also for purifying and celebrating. In fact, sips from a cup are often used to seal a marriage, making sake an integral part of Japanese culture.
Hitoshi Utsunomiya, director of the Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association, emphasizes that sake is more than just an alcoholic beverage. He believes that it is a representation of Japanese culture itself. This sentiment is shared by Max Del Vita, a certified sake sommelier and co-founder of The Sake Company, an import and distribution retailer in Singapore. Del Vita praises the sake brewers as “cultural stewards”, passing down their techniques through generations and blending ancient practices with modern innovations.
The UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage designation is not only given to historical monuments but also to practices that have been passed down for generations, including oral traditions, performing arts, rituals, and festivals. It is not meant to be used for commercial purposes, but sake officials are hopeful that it will help boost global sales and ensure that this traditional craft remains alive and thriving in the face of competition from other beverages, such as beer and wine.
Previous inclusions in the Intangible Cultural Heritage list include Kabuki theater, Gagaku court music, and Washoku, or Japanese cuisine, which received the honor in 2013. This recognition is not only a source of pride for the sake industry but also for Japan as a whole.
In conclusion, sake is more than just a
